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Garage insulation and boarding help

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  • Garage insulation and boarding help

    Morning guys

    Wonder if you can help.

    Our house and garage build is complete and one item I was looking to decide on towards the end was insulating and plaster boarding the garage.

    Unfortunately the builder has moved on to other projects now so doesn’t really have the manning available to complete the extra work.

    Im just looking to retain a-bit of heat not be fully air tight etc

    The garage is wood clad with no membrane currently on the walls which is a pain and I’m guessing they were thinking it was staying as a car port.

    Ceiling was going to be plaster boarded the wool type insulation added which is fairly simple.

    My main question is what do I do with the walls?

    Plan was to cut in a breather membrane between the uprights then an air gap.
    Next would be 45-50mm cellotex PIR
    Then a non permeable/ vapour barrier
    Lastly plaster board

    Would I need moisture resistant plasterboard if I did it this way on walls and ceiling?
    Only ask as it’s a fair bit more £££ than normal board.

    Cheers for any advice



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    • #3
      I am quantity surveyor for a plastering company - a tech question I can actually help with!! Haha

      See the two attached images:

      Yellow highlighted - I would fit a breather membrane to the back of the timber laths that the external cladding is fixed to then insulate this area

      Red highlighted - On this front face fix a layer of visqueen polythene sheeting then I would horizontally mount MF5 ceiling channels at 400 centres, then fix your plasterboard to that (MF5 shown in blue)

      Plasterboard wise you don't need moisture resistant that is usually just used for wet rooms / shower areas etc.

      If anything I would use a fireline plasterboard, but if you are planning on plaster skimming the garage then a plain 15mm wallboard would be ok too.

      MF5 channel: https://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...eiling-section

      (Note you can get cheaper alternatives of the british gypsum metals and plasterboards)
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        Thanks Gaz that is mega helpful!
        Do you know if I can push the celotex hard
        up against the breather membrane or do I need an air gap?

        Main reason I ask is because I’m trying to keep the oak frame exposed and using the recessed area in green for insulation and board etc


        create image url

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        • #5
          Whoops double post

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          • #6
            Hi I build sheds out building ect and also this how I do it it and have in my garden as follows.

            Loft insulation plaster board but you will need to put some form of heat in there to benefit form above.

            I have central heating in mine BUT I run it of gas bottles this way you can control what your using . Your move than welcome to call me on my advice. Just pm me colin

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Dan Le Moignan View Post
              Thanks Gaz that is mega helpful!
              Do you know if I can push the celotex hard
              up against the breather membrane or do I need an air gap?

              Main reason I ask is because I’m trying to keep the oak frame exposed and using the recessed area in green for insulation and board etc


              create image url
              I wouldn't like to say mate. The air gap is usually to allow air to circulate and avoid any damp spots. It doesn't look like you have much depth to work with if you're just boarding in between the frame so whatever you do really is going to be better than nothing at all.

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