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Apologies to all haha.
I was looking at the grooves/slots and not the vanes
Sorry lunes86
No problem sir!!
Be careful with the position of them, a mate of mine fried the pads (ferodo ds2500) and the discs (ap racing ones) due them couldn't to cool, just overheat and overheat.
Was an expensive lesson to him
Just under it now and the prop is nowhere near the exhaust so it's not that
check on the uj, spin it as the prop might not look close but the uj does
Steve
NSSCC 2016 Class B1 Champion
Mondeo 2.2 Titanium X sport daily driver, xr4x4 cosworth race car
Matt lewis motorsport supporting my racing in 2016
Reyland built, mapped by motorsport developments 455BHP http://www.mattlewismotorsport.co.uk/
No its fine Steve.
Guess the box is gonna have to come out
Also noticed the bell housing wasn't very tight also.
So that might explain the input bearing fail
another thing to check is the front inner driveshafts, if one of the needle roller bearing fails this can cause similar clunking this happened on my race car.
grab hold of the shaft with the wheels off the ground then pull it up and down then spin it and do it again and again, cheching all 3 bearings
Steve
NSSCC 2016 Class B1 Champion
Mondeo 2.2 Titanium X sport daily driver, xr4x4 cosworth race car
Matt lewis motorsport supporting my racing in 2016
Reyland built, mapped by motorsport developments 455BHP http://www.mattlewismotorsport.co.uk/
Does it stop if you put your foot on the brake slightly and clamp the discs a bit? Might be worth putting the wheel nuts on to hold the discs Incase its them rocking about on the hub
Does it change with wheel speed? Different gears?
Originally posted by James @ Auto DynamixView Post
Does it stop if you put your foot on the brake slightly and clamp the discs a bit? Might be worth putting the wheel nuts on to hold the discs Incase its them rocking about on the hub
Does it change with wheel speed? Different gears?
It did it while driving and yes it gets faster the faster you go James.
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