anyone got any pics of the situation of the master cylinder for clutch on a 3 door as i dont want to get it in the wrong place when i fit it
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mate its a right pain in the arse there is no way of measuring it! i spent hours trying to be spot on, to realise that its impossible..
the best thing to do is wip the dash out and fit the hydro this way, you can have full view of the pedal box and you can get it perfect.. adds a days labour to the job but its as good as stock this way
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Originally posted by dom123 View Postmate its a right pain in the arse there is no way of measuring it! i spent hours trying to be spot on, to realise that its impossible..
the best thing to do is wip the dash out and fit the hydro this way, you can have full view of the pedal box and you can get it perfect.. adds a days labour to the job but its as good as stock this waysigpic
Mapped by MAD 732.4 bhp 570 lbs torque
Swindon RSOC Chairman/RS Combe organiser
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Originally posted by Paul RS View PostI'd be interested to see the positon too, i really need to get my finger out and fit mine!sigpic
Built by my self dp motorsport 700.6bhp 520ftlb efr9180 2.4bar m.a.d mapped flat out is the only way
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My advice would be to do your pedal first, with a decent pedal ratio - 6:1 is around about right (this is determined by the position of the hole you drill in the pedal). Then, fit your clevis pin or rose joint to the pedal. Fit a short piece of threaded bar (or the pushrod from the M/Cyl) to the rose joint and then use that to workout the centre of the hole through the bulkhead. You need to really make sure the pushrod for the M/Cyl stays as straight as possible, both horizontal and vertical, otherwise you will knacker them really quickly and leave you with no clutch pedal!!
DO NOT use wilwood master cylinders, I now have 4 scrap ones in my shed!!!Cheers, Kev.
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Originally posted by kjc300 View PostMy advice would be to do your pedal first, with a decent pedal ratio - 6:1 is around about right (this is determined by the position of the hole you drill in the pedal). Then, fit your clevis pin or rose joint to the pedal. Fit a short piece of threaded bar (or the pushrod from the M/Cyl) to the rose joint and then use that to workout the centre of the hole through the bulkhead. You need to really make sure the pushrod for the M/Cyl stays as straight as possible, both horizontal and vertical, otherwise you will knacker them really quickly and leave you with no clutch pedal!!
DO NOT use wilwood master cylinders, I now have 4 scrap ones in my shed!!!sigpic
Mapped by MAD 732.4 bhp 570 lbs torque
Swindon RSOC Chairman/RS Combe organiser
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The bores wear out quickly, turn the brake fluid a dark grey (due to all the particles of ally from the bore)
ANY slight misalignment of the pushrod will cause / compound the problem.
Which leaves you with no pedal pressure all of a sudden, hence no clutch.
Another thing I would suggest is to make the bolts through the bulkhead captive by welding them onto a small metal plate which you silicon into position on the inside. (obviously the plate needs the large centre hole for the master cylinder too). This makes changing the master cylinder SO much easier, believe me - I've done it quite a few times, not just for when they fail - but also messing about with the bite point which requires different size master/slave cylinders.
Cheers, Kev.
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