why are the inside edge of my tyres worn badly

[Kelv]

just wish Mike knew the ideal settings for the FRS.

got all of my silly suspension going on tomorrow, theres far to many individual adjustments

[sixaxles]

good info mike! i had my tracking done last year and thought the car handled worse afterwards!

[Dave H]

The cure is to set the front end to 2mm overall toe-IN (aiming for 1mm each side). As this is the only thing that is adjustable on the front end (as standard) you can't really go wrong .

Mike, what are the perfect settings if you HAVE got adjustable tca's? I got a set going on next week and need to tell the laser aligner as much info as poss.

[radiant rob]

Wasn't there a problem with non gen tca,been that the ball joint was at a diff angle.
Or am i talking bollocks.

[Mike Rainbird]

Wasn't there a problem with non gen tca,been that the ball joint was at a diff angle.
Or am i talking bollocks.

And they use cheap shit aftermarket TCAs where the ball joint is half the size of the Ford one, so they last about 3-6 months .

Compbrake do conversions on the original Ford ones and these are the ONLY ones to have !

[Mike Rainbird]

Mike, what are the perfect settings if you HAVE got adjustable tca's? I got a set going on next week and need to tell the laser aligner as much info as poss.

Depends if it is a road car or track car and what suspension is on the car (and how you drive LOL).

[Mike Rainbird]

good info mike! i had my tracking done last year and thought the car handled worse afterwards!

Now you know why - parallel settings make the car wander more than a drunken spider .

[Dave H]

Depends if it is a road car or track car and what suspension is on the car (and how you drive LOL).

It's a road car but used for the occasional track day. It's on konis

[L8 ECU]

It's a road car but used for the occasional track day. It's on konis

Check that the Koni's are not bent.

They kink at the hub carrier top edge, and even a small 1mm kink (barely visible) will easily produce 1 degree of extra negative camber, this would lead to excessive inside edge tyre wear, regardless of the toe-in being perfect. I have seen this many times.

[Mike Rainbird]

Check that the Koni's are not bent.

They kink at the hub carrier top edge, and even a small 1mm kink (barely visible) will easily produce 1 degree of extra negative camber, this would lead to excessive inside edge tyre wear, regardless of the toe-in being perfect. I have seen this many times.

As Doug has pointed out you have to make sure that the damper is fully seated all the way into the hub, and this can mean elongating the clamping bolt slot to ensure this happens, otherwise as has been said the damper can bend.

[Mike Rainbird]

It's a road car but used for the occasional track day. It's on konis

What about rear beam - standard or 6° adjustable?

[Dave H]

What about rear beam - standard or 6° adjustable?

Standard rear beam. Nothing wrong with my konis, tyres don't wear uneven but bottom ball joint knocking like mad so gone for adjustable tcas

[Mike Rainbird]

Standard rear beam. Nothing wrong with my konis, tyres don't wear uneven but bottom ball joint knocking like mad so gone for adjustable tcas

Did you go for the Compbrake modified standard ones (if not, and you use the car regaularly, the cheap ones will be knocking again in a matter of months.....).

Do you like the way the car currently drives - is there any aspect of it you DON'T like?

[Dave H]

Yes I bought the compbrake ones made with genuine ford arms, the front tends to tramline a little when on the gas but I put that down to the shitty roads round here. Apart from that I'm happy with the handling although I'll also be fitting some of your shims when my carbon stuff is ready.

[Mike Rainbird]

Yes I bought the compbrake ones made with genuine ford arms, the front tends to tramline a little when on the gas but I put that down to the shitty roads round here. Apart from that I'm happy with the handling although I'll also be fitting some of your shims when my carbon stuff is ready.

Okay, the tramlining is down to the parallel setting. Give it the toe-in setting that I suggested and it will cure that. Regarding the camber, for a road car 1.5° negative to 2.0° negative is what to go for. Obviously if you do a lot of motorway work, then the inside edge will wear quicker than the rest of the tyre with a high degree of negative camber. But if this isn't sufficient and you do a fair number of track days, then the outside edge of the tyre will wear instead..... Unfortunately it is all about finding the compromise that works for how you use the car .