Primer / Underseal For Undersides - Advice from specialists?

[Fizziani]

Hello,

Any input appreciated from you restorers/painters out there...

Thinking of the future here once i can get my escos to bare metal and the underside (having mine sandblasted down to the metal hopefully)...

What is the absolute BEST way to get a nice finish on the underside.... I am aware of the compromise without stonechip and having the smooth finish look.. But what is the best absoloute best products out there including brands like glasurit/basf etc..



First bare metal..

Some people say etch primer has the best 'stick' attaching quality to steel, however a lot of people have used epoxy mastic 121 stuff and say its good... a search has bought up something called Electrox from Bilt Hamber (no idea what this is).. and then i have heard good things about por15...

Second is the ongoing protection...

I am in two minds about stonechipping as i would like to go for the 'sunday best' smooth look... The link below shows a car recently done and mark barber showed his ex imperial was similar (won modified concourse many times).. however with stonechip i assume people use dinitrol, 3m and the like?

http://www.escortrscosworth.com/foru...ad.php?t=42600



Seam sealing....

Done before the stonechip I assume? Polyurethane stuff i hear is good but what else have people used?


Final Part....

Paint and finish.. what have people used.. and i mean specific stuff for the body colour or factory look finish.. 2 pack and lacquers?





Cheers


Fizz

[DAI COSSY]

I'm not a expert but will give you my opinion as I've learned a lot from doing my 3dr and escos twice when I did my escos the first time etch primer then used inotech sprayable seam sealer and got the finish nice that is like a rubber finish I then used. Base and lacquer. Which was a mistake on my part due to base and lacquer scratches very easily looks nice but with the rubber sealer finish its the rubber that moves when marked and inturn causes paint to flake/crack/peel so I learned that to get a good hard finish when using the rubber sealer first coat of paint should be a 2k paint or primer so the when the base goes on its a harder finish,
On my 3dr I done the same but used a 2k light grey for a good finish and tbh I was happy with the finish,then I just had the arches based and clear in moonstone
I've deffo done it the hard way though I have used spray sealer all underneath not just the standard areas

[Ben Purnell]

my products of choice are Jenolite for any rust treatment followed by Bonda Rust Primer, and then UPOL Raptor which I think gives a good finish and you can get a tintable version so you can have it any colour you like

[Fizziani]

I'm not a expert but will give you my opinion as I've learned a lot from doing my 3dr and escos twice when I did my escos the first time etch primer then used inotech sprayable seam sealer and got the finish nice that is like a rubber finish I then used. Base and lacquer. Which was a mistake on my part due to base and lacquer scratches very easily looks nice but with the rubber sealer finish its the rubber that moves when marked and inturn causes paint to flake/crack/peel so I learned that to get a good hard finish when using the rubber sealer first coat of paint should be a 2k paint or primer so the when the base goes on its a harder finish,
On my 3dr I done the same but used a 2k light grey for a good finish and tbh I was happy with the finish,then I just had the arches based and clear in moonstone
I've deffo done it the hard way though I have used spray sealer all underneath not just the standard areas

Some good tips there! I assume the 3dr spray sealer was aerosol or gun based? What stuff was that?

[Fizziani]

my products of choice are Jenolite for any rust treatment followed by Bonda Rust Primer, and then UPOL Raptor which I think gives a good finish and you can get a tintable version so you can have it any colour you like

Jenolite on bare metal to clean it throughly? Bonda rust primer is said to give a rubber finish if im right?

Would love to see any pics of the finish?

Cheers

Fizz

[Ben Purnell]

Have a look at my MG resto here, top pictures on that page show the process
http://www.escortrscosworth.com/foru...t=42276&page=3

After I scraped off the underseal I rubbed it all down with petrol, then applied the Jenolite across the whole underneath. I had a few bits of surface rust here and there. Bonda rust primer with a brush over that a good couple of coats. Then the raptor, this is what is rubberized must admit it doesn't feel it now, just feels rock hard now. I've have it on the bottom of my escort and has held up well for the past two years on there.

[mayo rs]

Just done mine got the under body completely back to bare metal then wipe down ,first coat acid etch then a light rub with grey scotch pad then a coat 2k primer another rub down with scotch and one more coat of 2x primer 3m 2k bag sealer on the joints and then prime over the sealer give plenty of time to dry another rub down then i gave her a coat of upol raptor( if you use the 3m sealer and the rapter make sure to prime the sealer as it can react) ,then finish with 2 coats 2k paint and laquer, not planning on doing it again .In the middle of getting all the mechanical bits and peaces cleaned and 2k painted slow work but shes getting there.

[DAI COSSY]

Some good tips there! I assume the 3dr spray sealer was aerosol or gun based? What stuff was that?

Yes it's a air fed gun applicator it uses silkicone type cartridge with obviously the seam sealer it can spray diff pattern finishes equivalent to factory finish or what you require the very same finish you get to the 3m version with the bag the gun isn't cheap though if you go on inotec web it's there they do diff sealers they do a thick and thin sealer the thick is best for the areas that need the build up of more ie chassis seams etc then I used the thin on floor pan but I did go over kill I used in total 8 tubes of thick then a further 28 of thin lol.....and the do various colours I'm told its oe sealer thet many german cars that don't rust use

[Fizziani]

Good stuff here... The original ford stuff really wasnt that good... hides a lot of things sure.. but protection was not the best.

Upol raptor is one i must admit i never considered.. the rubber finish i always thought wasnt a good idea to paint on top just as you experienced DAI COSSY. but sounds like it hardens very good.. this is a clearly different product to their gravitex which i heard is a good stonechip...

Back to primer stage.. anyone used epoxy mastic 121? I cant figure if this is a direct on steel primer or if it were go on top their 421 or any other etch type product would it be ok...

Fizz

[Ben Purnell]

the raptor is great and you wouldn't need to do paint afterwards if you got the tintable one, you just tip the required amount of colour in before you spray. It's good value for money at around £80 for a 4 litre kit. I would look to get two kits.

Think Dave used the 121 and I'm sure it went on over any surface rust treatment. There are far too many products out there with differing apparent uses.
I opted for the bonda rust after being recommended it by other MG owners, and it goes on lovely with a brush and dries to leave no brush marks. Mainly used for boats but a great way to keep moisture out and the metal protected. I seam sealed and then did the raptor for about £250 and you wouldn't need any more

[redrsmk5]

I used 121, can highly recommend it