Painting a car

[Ben Purnell]

Its now that time to start looking for paint for the MG, and as I’ve not painted a car before I could do with some pointers from the ones who have.

I’m looking to do both the inside and outside of the car and wondered if anyone could give me some pointers on the quantities needed to complete the job with a bit left over and if you have any recommendations on the what paint to use.
My thoughts are at the moment to go with a graphite grey for the interior and keep the exterior black, something tells me I need to steer clear of Gloss Black due to it being very hard to get right, so I guess that leaves me with Matt or Satin Black.

I guess I need the following
1.A decent high build primer, say UPOL P88 Cellulose Primer Grey
2.Some Matt/Satin Cellulose Paint
3.A load of thinners but is there different ones to be used with the primer and paint?

It’s a relatively small car and as mentioned above rough quantities of what I need would help no end

Also if anyone has some good pointers on what to do and when for example rubbing down after each coat and what grade of paper to start with and end up finishing with, I could be taking on far too much but would be cool to give it a go.

[maxest]

Can't help, but I bet there's some good youtube tutorials

[Mike C]

Couple of questions first?

Why are you choosing to use Cellulose?

Why wouldn't you go for a gloss finish?

[Ben Purnell]

Thought cellulose was better for the classic cars, bearing in mind its a 1967 model and not down to bate metal.
I'd like a gloss finish of I can but I thought that was much harder to achieve and given its my first time id like to do it in the easiest way

[cosman]

Well done for having a go Ben I would love to have a go at painting, look forward to hearing more and how you get on with it

[COZZFATHER]

Celly was cheep cheerful and easy to whack on..
50-50 if it was inside hot,60-40 if you wanted a glossy wet coat.. Quick to dry easy to flat and buff..
It's far too hard to explain how too's but I'd say practice on a old panel to gain confidence 1st.
I started as a kid painting bmx's,when I wafted my 1st lwb transit and made proper dough on it I knew I was more use than that one eared get whatsisface

[Mike C]

Thought cellulose was better for the classic cars, bearing in mind its a 1967 model and not down to bate metal.
I'd like a gloss finish of I can but I thought that was much harder to achieve and given its my first time id like to do it in the easiest way

It's not better, but it would give you a closer finish to what came out of the factory on a car of that particular age. But a matt or satin finish would counter that.

Personally, I really can't see why it would be any more difficult to achieve a gloss finish than any other and gloss would leave you more scope for rectification later.

Cellulose is more forgiving to a beginner, but painting cellulose I'd want to make sure there was a reasonable level of heat. With 2K there are more options for painting with little or no heat and still achieving a good finish.

As for volumes. 2 Litres should be enough, thinned down, but I'd allow 3 to be safe.

[twin turbo]

you need correct thinner and hardner to the primer/Paint you use yes. not the same on all

after clean

1: thin etchprimer(max 70% cover) on any bare metal
2: 2k sanding filler

after sanding Down the sandingfiller so the finish is what you want.
1: etch on bare metal if sanded trough filler
2: paint(I only use 2k)
3: clearcoat if you whant more shine

done deal

[twin turbo]

before filler I finish off With p240- 320 on machine (osalating round, not sure what you call it) and 400 on edges With hand.

sandingfiller I use 320-400(both With handbox to straighten by hand ,and machine after handsanded) and wetsand With 800-1000 With handpads before Paint.

[rsclassicman]

Prepping and painting cars is one of those things you need to work at and practice to achieve any sort of decent results. My advice would be to get a mate who knows what he's at to give you a hand and keep you right as you go. If the cars not going bare metal you don't want to use a cellulose filler primer as chances are any spot in the paint where you've rubbed through a couple of layers will have a paint reaction. I'd go for a good quality 2k filler primer as this won't react and will also make a better base for the new top coat. If you are dead set on a cellulose top coat to achieve an authentic finish the the one word of caution I'd have for you is you need to be quite fast with the spray gun. Cellulose paint dries quickly and when you are painting a car you always want to be spraying into wet paint or you will get overspray lines. For example you start painting the roof in the centre and work out towards the roof gutter. You then go to the other side and repeat the process to cover the entire roof. If you aren't quick enough by the time you get round the other side you could be painting into almost dry paint and the centre of your roof will look like overspray instead of flat shiny paint. Personall I'd use a 2k top coat as it doesn't dry quite as fast and you have enough time to get all the way round the car and still be painting wet on wet. There's no difference between painting Matt, satin or gloss as regards the process but gloss is easier to sand/ buff/ refinish etc to achieve good results. Most important thing to remember is don't panic if it all goes horribly wrong. Just want til it's dry and rub it down and start again, practice makes perfect! Oh and defo make sure you have some sort of extraction and a good respirator mask, all automotive paints are nasty to breath and can do you lots of harm......good luck....

[Ben Purnell]

perfect thanks for all the advice everyone. I don't expect it to be perfect and who knows what mess I'll make of it

But I just want to have a go. I've now preference for any paint I was just going from what I've read on the subject. The project is not authentic and I'm not bothered in keeping it that way, I would rather use the most appropriate my level of expertise.
I've got a mate that used to work at a paint suppliers and still gets good discount and in all honesty I'd rather go gloss.

What brands would people avoid, majority of the stuff was U-POL at my local place.

[Mark-C]

my top tip is, with it being an old car which most have had several coats of paint over the years i would tend to use a sealer first to save old paint reacting to the new primer/paint

[Rally247]

Would recommend 2k primer, as celly will sink. Prep is the key to a good job, don't be tempted to rush it. Cellulose top coat is a good way to learn, as it drys quickly and is easily flatted and polished. Don't be scared of using 2k , it's actually easier to get a good finish, as it stays 'wet' for longer. Make sure you get a good overlap with each pass.
Ultimately give it ago , it's very rewarding , even if not perfect, but once you've tried, you don't mind trying again