mustang 289 overheating and other problems

[twin turbo]

I am looking into some issues on a 1965 289 mustang, and have got some Things fixed, but still more issues... so any input is good...

- exhaust is hotter on one side then other
- have some valve knocking, so some tolerances would be Nice, so I can adjust it.
- after it had runned for over one houer today to check and fill oil on gearbox, when stopped it, it started to boiling like hell..
- most times when do kickdown the engine stops, runnes okay but not full Power on normal driving

[VADreamer]

- exhaust is hotter on one side then other: Do you mean the actual gas temp? How are you measuring and what are the temps? Single or dual plane intake?

- have some valve knocking, so some tolerances would be Nice, so I can adjust it.: Solid or Hydraulic cam? Flat tappet? Factory or roller rockers?

- after it had runned for over one houer today to check and fill oil on gearbox, when stopped it, it started to boiling like hell.: Are you running a thermostat? What temp? How old is the radiator cap and is it the right rating?

- most times when do kickdown the engine stops, runnes okay but not full Power on normal driving: by "kickdown" are you referring to downshift on an automatic transmission? What carb? What transmission?

I have lots of ideas, but I could be more help if I knew all the details of your build.
r/
Boyd

[twin turbo]

hi. thanx

- felt by hand at the rear, can feel big difference. (when it was coold, I drow it into the workshop from the Storage, under 100m, and when felt then the left side was feeling almost Cold, and the right side was hot, and then after the engine was hot, could still feel huge difference)

-no idia, havent opened it yet... car was bought after previos owner passed away, so all info left With him...

- dont know, will open and check, tempgauge is not working... cap is also unknown. but the car was running without any boiling issue for a houer, and started to boil almost imidatly after I shut it Down... it spat out over 1.5litre off coolant, and allot of air...

-yes downshift auto, but also when put pedal to the floor quickly, and let go after like a second, it stopped too yesterday...

auto c4?, carter afb carb, edelbrock inlett. have checked the carb, since it was very slow earlier, and found that one of the needles was stuck, so fixed that, and it runned allot better after that, but this was before I found these other problems.

[VADreamer]

OK. It sounds like it has been sitting for a while, which I kinda suspected. Forgive me if some of this sounds obvious, but this is what's kickin' around my head (easy things first):
Puking coolant
1. Over-filled radiator. Old mustangs ran "open" cooling systems and there needs to be room for expansion left in the radiator. Only fill to about an inch above the tubes in the radiator.
2. Air pockets in the system. Coolant temps will always rise when the engine shuts down due to heat soak and coolant near air pockets can flash to steam raising pressure and pushing coolant out.
3. Bad seal on radiator cap/under-rated radiator cap or pin hole in system - if the system won't pressurize, the boiling point will be lower. Install a 16 pound cap and pressure test the system.
4. Clogged radiator/collapsed lower radiator hose. Clogged rad is likely if the car sat - can check for cold spots on the rad (indicating clogged tubes) after running the car long enough for the thermostat to open. Less likely, because you don't overheat on the highway, is the lower radiator hose collapsing at high speed. There should be a spring inside the lower hose to keep the hose open.
5. No fan shroud/failed fan clutch. As long as the car is moving, there will be airflow over the radiator, but without a fan shroud, or if the fan clutch has failed, the fan won't pull air though the radiator at low speed.
Valve/lifter rattle
1. Improper lifter pre-load
2. Clogged lifter oil passages preventing lifter pump-up
3. Collapsed lifter
3. Bent push rod
Valve Adjustment:
1. Assuming a hydraulic, flat-tappet camshaft and original heads with rocker arm studs: my 1970 Factory Manual says to tighten the lock-nut to the stud shoulder and then torque to 20 ft.-lbs. (with the valve closed and the lifters primed). There is a procedure to check clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm before torquing the rocker nut, but it requires a special tool to collapse the lifter.
The more common adjustment method: (cold engine) With the valves closed, loosen the rocker nut until the push rod moves freely - then, while twisting and shaking the pushrod with your fingers, tighten the rocker nut until you can no longer spin the push rod. Finally, tighten the rocker nut an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
Carb issues:
If the needle was stuck, there's probably other issues. I'd disassemble, clean thoroughly (if it sat long with fuel int it, this may required specialist attention to ensure the internal passages are clear of "varnish"), and adjust according to the instructions in the rebuild kit. Running lean is running hot. If it is a dual plane intake like an Edelbrock Performer, the two sides of the carb will be isolated. This can cause side to side performance issues. The carb may be the source of your kickdown problems, also.
Transmission Kickdown
This really depends upon the specific installation. I've found this drawing of a cable-type kickdown. You may have a rod-type and the adjustments are specific to each.

I'll try to find my 64-1/2 to 73 manual to get the early Kickdown adjustment procedures, later.

Timing/Ignition:
Plugs BF-42 0.034" gap. Point gap 0.017". Dwell 29 Degrees. Initial timing 6 Degrees BTDC. Idle 500 RPM.
Hope this helps some.
r/
Boyd

[twin turbo]

thanx, this helps

1. its overfilled then, since its almost all up

2. will check, is it anywhere its normal to get air trapped?

3. will look for another to try

4. did a feel on it last time, and seemed to be "even" temp over the rad.

5. there is no Shield around the fan.

lifter I will check more on. and carb will get more adjustment.

[VADreamer]

1. its overfilled then, since its almost all up - This may be most of your problem as it will push coolant out until it finds its own level. When it cools down, is the level in the radiator still above the tubes?

2. will check, is it anywhere its normal to get air trapped? - Nowhere in particular, but old engines can have "dams" in the water jacket from corrosion debris. Not saying this is the case for you, but always a possibility with iron blocks and poor maintenance.

5. there is no Shield around the fan. - Fan shrouds are critical on old Mustangs.

Another thought was the thermostat. Many shade-tree mechanics removed them as an "obstruction" thinking the car would run cooler, but the opposite is true. If the coolant is constantly circulating, it doesn't stay in the block long enough to absorb heat and then doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool down. The end result is an engine that takes too long to warm up and then runs hot. The same happens with a 160 Degree F thermostat. The thermostat should be no lower than 180 degrees F. I usually run a 192.
r/
Boyd

[twin turbo]

1. yes its almost full, since we have a bottle beside rad, With the overflow tube into it, so it sucks it back in when cooling Down.

2. okay, the engineand car in general looks like it have been okay maitained overall, but have been standing for some time now..

5. will get one

termostat will be checked

thanx for all help so far

[twin turbo]

took of rockercover today, and found 3 cylinders having all loose rockerarms... so collapsed lifters is the problem(atleast 1 of the problems)

[VADreamer]

Collapsed lifters is certainly a possibility, but were the rocker nuts tight? Did you check the push rods for straightness? I only ask because you didn't say. And I'd hate to buy parts I didn't need to.
r/
Boyd

[twin turbo]

hi. yes the nuts on these are all Down to max. the rods are straight. will try to get them out, and see if its enough to clean them.. if not its engine out and rebuild all, or get another...

[VADreamer]

Hopefully a good flushing will loosen them up. Let me know if you need help sourcing anything.
r/
Boyd

[twin turbo]

yes hope they will,. thanx will do