ABS Lights On

[jsa]

Yes the abs pump is below the reservoir. It runs if accumulator pressure is low.

Noise at the back of the car is fuel pump. Noise around reservoir is abs pump.

[ablc]

Remove fuel fusible and do the test

[Potter]

I think I'm getting confused here between the valve block and the abs pump. Is the abs pump underneath the brake reservoir? Sorry for the idiot level questions....

Yes ABS pump is under the res, the valve block is passenger inner wing area.

you should hear the ABS pump as well as the fuel pump, maybe get someone to turn on the ignition while you stick your head under the bonnet to be sure.

I dont have ABS and subsequently no light, however my red light does come on occasionally when I first start the car and then goes off after I move it for a few metres.

EDIT - just written the above and then seen half the questions answered already lol!

[TREVCOS]

I can't seem to hear anything under the bonnet. I did think about trying to bleed the rear brakes, which I haven't done yet, and see if it runs then. I've read somewhere it should run to push the fluid through, am I thinking right here?

[ablc]

did you check the fuses in the fuse box?
Relays in the fuse box?
Fuse in the trunk on the abs box?

[TREVCOS]

did you check the fuses in the fuse box?
Relays in the fuse box?
Fuse in the trunk on the abs box?

I am going to go down the list. I don't suppose you've got any pics of where they all are have you?

[Dave H]

When you turn the ignition on the fuel pump should prime for about 10 seconds but the abs pump runs for about 30 seconds before the system is up to pressure. It's a lot quieter than fuel pump, like a buzzing noise. Once your confident that it running, the first thing you should be doing is bleeding the brakes, left rear 1st, right rear 2nd, front left 3rd, front right last.

[ablc]

R9 Brown seems to bé relays fuel pump
number 5 fuse fuel pump

[ablc]

ABS module

[TREVCOS]

When you turn the ignition on the fuel pump should prime for about 10 seconds but the abs pump runs for about 30 seconds before the system is up to pressure. It's a lot quieter than fuel pump, like a buzzing noise. Once your confident that it running, the first thing you should be doing is bleeding the brakes, left rear 1st, right rear 2nd, front left 3rd, front right last.

I can hear a click like a relay switching under the bonnet when the fuel pump stops but no buzzing. Anyway, I'll see how I go with these fuses etc.

[Grand Tomismo]

The clicking - or click will be the ABS block solenoid, does it after 10 or so seconds.

I had issues with mine after changing the flexi pipes on the brake lines. Managed to air-lock the pump, (because I inadvertently drained the whole system by taking my time) you could hear the pump running but it never made pressure due to being air-locked so wouldn't stop running, sorted it out with an Eezie bleed kit and plenty of patience.

Working fine, pump on with a tap of the brakes making pressure then switching off, before it stopped working again. This time though it was one of the fuses in the passenger rear wheel well behind the carpet was in poor condition, replaced the fuse holder and fuse and working again as it should since.

As mention previous, pull the fuse, or relay for the fuel pump, it will cut down the noise levels. if you hear the click, but no extra buzzing, try tapping the brake pedal to activate the system. If still no buzzing have a feel of the ABS pump, easier without turbo heat shield or from underneath, if not running check fuse and power in boot, fuse are direct feed from battery so should show 12 plus volts on a multi-meter.

[TREVCOS]

The clicking - or click will be the ABS block solenoid, does it after 10 or so seconds.

I had issues with mine after changing the flexi pipes on the brake lines. Managed to air-lock the pump, (because I inadvertently drained the whole system by taking my time) you could hear the pump running but it never made pressure due to being air-locked so wouldn't stop running, sorted it out with an Eezie bleed kit and plenty of patience.

Working fine, pump on with a tap of the brakes making pressure then switching off, before it stopped working again. This time though it was one of the fuses in the passenger rear wheel well behind the carpet was in poor condition, replaced the fuse holder and fuse and working again as it should since.

As mention previous, pull the fuse, or relay for the fuel pump, it will cut down the noise levels. if you hear the click, but no extra buzzing, try tapping the brake pedal to activate the system. If still no buzzing have a feel of the ABS pump, easier without turbo heat shield or from underneath, if not running check fuse and power in boot, fuse are direct feed from battery so should show 12 plus volts on a multi-meter.

Thanks mate, this does sound a bit like mine, I'll be back on the case over the weekend.

[Grand Tomismo]

Must admit, it took me a few days of head scratching and searching the interwebs before I fully understood what had happen and where to start looking. Satisfying when the pump primed up and the dash lights went out.

[TREVCOS]

Must admit, it took me a few days of head scratching and searching the interwebs before I fully understood what had happen and where to start looking. Satisfying when the pump primed up and the dash lights went out.

My pump will have been dry too, because I had all the brake pipes off to paint them, and replaced all the hoses with braided ones, and replaced all the calipers.

[c20tbo]

30A fuse in rear was gone in mine